Anifa Mvuemba on the African Diaspora and Black Innovation – ELLE

Posted By on June 14, 2022

Getty + Design Leah Romero

Black people are often called resilient. We continue to survive the unthinkable while leaving the world more beautiful and equitable than we found it. More than resilience, its our innovation and ability to see what is not yet presentjustice, joy, autonomyand bring it to life. Anifa Mvuemba knows this. As one of the most innovative designers in the fashion industry and the founder of the brand Hanifa, her creative eye and business prowess have led her to dress top fashionistas including Zendaya, Trace Ellis Ross, Bella Hadid, and more. ELLE.com sat down with Mvuemba to unpack her Congolese roots, her U.S. upbringing, and how her imagination has led the Hanifa brand to new heights.

If I went to a different school, I wouldnt have experienced Blackness in the way that I did. The HBCU experience is unmatched! At Morgan State, I was so young and still trying to figure out who I was and where I wanted to be. My time at Morgan was a stepping stone, not just for me. A lot of people dont even know about Congo and in a lot of my friend groups, Im the only Congolese person that they know.

With [Hanifas fashion collection] Pink Label Congo, I was happy to shed light and bring awareness, so theres a lot I want to do with Congo! At the same time, Im still in the process of understanding and learning about my roots.

My parents have always traveled a lot, but in 2005 my brother was murdered in Maryland, and it was a really difficult time for my family. We were invited to Dubai by a family friend to get away and refresh. I was a freshman in high school, so I wasnt actually thrilled then about the trip because my world was already changing so much. But when I look back on my time there, its clear to me that my perspective on life shifted. You meet so many people from all walks of life, religions, and racial backgrounds. The inspiration I got was insane.

Im getting better at it Ive found that its definitely about finding that balance, which can be difficult when your team really depends on you. There are seasons where I take off for two weeks and other seasons where Im working nonstop. Now, I have a business coach, and Im making time for mental work days where Im not on calls or talking to anyone. It gives me time to process my thoughts and show up as a better leader and creative for my team.

Its really cool, because if I wasnt in fashion, Id probably be building computers somewhere. Since Myspace and early blogging days, Ive been obsessed with coding and how tech functions. It was divine timing when [Pink Label Congo] happened in 2020. [Editors note: In May 2020, Mvuemba debuted her collection Pink Label Congo with 3D renderings on Instagram Live.] I was already back and forth on whether to do a virtual or in-person show and when the world shut down [because of COVID-19], it became a no brainer. Getting to merge both passions is a dream come true. Now were seeing these two worlds collide now more than ever through digital avatars, the metaverse, and more. I hope to always be innovating in this space.

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It was really difficult for me entering the industry because I didnt have the traditional fashion background or those resources. I read so many articles and Googled YouTube videos to understand how to break into this industry, but I had to figure out how I was gonna do it and do it my way. Rejection led me to have this mindset of transforming the industry, but I also have to thank social media. At the beginning in 2011, I was on Instagram and posted my first dress back when the platform was really new. Social media has opened up new paths for designers. Now that Im more secure in my place in the industry, I also work hard to create more opportunities for those coming behind me. There are so many programs supporting new and upcoming designers, and Im building that out now.

Michelle Obama wore a custom piece and I screamed! THE Michelle Obama! That was super surreal. Also, Beyonc wore an Alia dress on a vacation.

Thats a great question! I always talk about Hanifa growing with me, and were both becoming what Ive always wanted us to be. Ive always been connected to my brand, but recently Ive been trying to figure out what it would look like to separate the two more. A lot of people learned about Anifa from the creativity side, but I also want people to know the business side as well. This mentorship program were building out will be an extension of that.

Fisayo Longe is the founder and CEO of KAI Collective, a U.K.-based brand. Our paths align, and shes doing a lot of creative and cool things, so Im really excited to see what shes going to do with her brand. This year, I attended the Fifteen Percent Pledge Gala, and it was so inspiring to see a room full of Black creatives, Black designers, and Black business owners. Im really excited to see more of that.

This interview was lightly edited for clarity.

This story was created as part of Future Rising in partnership with Lexus. Future Rising is a series running across Hearst Magazines to celebrate the profound impact of Black culture on American life, and to spotlight some of the most dynamic voices of our time. Go to oprahdaily.com/futurerising for the complete portfolio.

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Anifa Mvuemba on the African Diaspora and Black Innovation - ELLE

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