Jewish American Heritage Month

Posted By richards on January 13, 2015

Theres no such thing as an easing back into the limelight for John Galliano. The appointment of the flamboyant designer to the Paris house of Martin Margiela was the biggest fashion news of 2014 a controversial opportunity for redemption and a major publicity coup for Diesel owner Renzo Rosso, after Gallianos dismissal from Dior for anti-Semitic remarks caught on video in a shocking display in a Paris cafe in 2011.

The road to redemption hasnt been easy. It suffered a major setback two years ago when Galliano, in New York to assist Oscar de la Renta who had offered Galliano a hand back up into the fashion saddle was photographed stepping out in garb that appeared to reference Hasidic clothing on the morning of de la Rentas fall 2013 show.

The subsequent story and photo that ran on the cover of the New York Post in February 2013 set off another firestorm of accusation, denial and a round of explanations in high-profile media outlets such as Vanity Fair and Charlie Rose.

Monday morning saw Gallianos first runway presentation, a womens couture show buried during the mens shows in Paris, which would be the most watched online anyway, given its 100 invitees. Such was the importance to the fashion community, it even has its own hashtag, #MargielaMonday.

Photo: Handout

Another strict column of floor-length red velvet with a mandarin collar is a nod to Margielas subverted brand of functional minimalism.

Photo: Handout

Theres plenty of autobiographical self-reference in the clothes, too: Pierrot the clown/mime, fallen royalty and stripped-down, monklike humility. The show is rippling with street-style ideas, since that is the segment of fashion where the new owner lives and a perfect home for Galliano. But dont say it redeems him. Its two different things. Galliano himself probably knows this, given his new normal look, a meticulously turned-out fashion worker bee. Margiela himself refused to be photographed. Galliano took a millisecond-long bow in the Margiela houses signature lab coat.

Galliano may never be redeemed by his creative output in the eyes of a lot of people. But hes no doubt been through the ringer between rehab, Jewish school with the Anti-Defamation League and the court of public opinion, so it would be scary for someone like that to go back to a profession whose creative process was fueled by a certain lifestyle and rituals for so long, probably because of the pressure. Would he be as good? The consensus: that its a decent start.

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Dont call Gallianos first show for Martin Margiela his redemption

Category: Hasidic
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